Tag Archives: farm

Fertilizer on the Homestead (Principle 6)

I was recently asked if the fertilizer shortage caused by the closing of the Strait of Hormuz was going to cause problems for our homestead. There are many reasons that I am against this war, but I am glad to say that needing fertilizer from across the globe is not one of them.

Rattlesnake Pole Beans Climbing

The main reason for that is that we do not use synthetic chemicals on our land. Commercial nitrogen was invented about 100 years ago while plants have thrived on land for about 500 million years. So, I am quite convinced that chemical fertilizer is not a necessity. (See the pictures in this post of our gardens and judge for yourself if plants can do without it.)

2026 has been our best cauliflower year

In fact, fertilizers are not only unnecessary, they are a huge problem. Pollution is one major effect. About 80% of applied nitrogen is lost to the environment polluting land, water systems and the air and atmosphere. They also negatively impact soil ecosystems by decreasing soil life and reducing organic matter. Thus, our soil releases more carbon into the atmosphere, plants are not as healthy, and our food is not as nutritious.

Beets need phosphorus and potassium more than nitrogen to get this big

Permaculture principle 6 teaches us to Produce No Waste, to instead value the byproducts of one system as inputs into another. This is entirely how natural systems work – like the way plants breath out what we need to breath in and vice versa. Humans have managed to create a few products that defy this rule – plastic and nuclear waste top the list – but it’s otherwise easy to notice around us and apply the principle ourselves. We do this by reusing, repurposing, recycling, composting and more.  We can approach fertilizing this way, too, with nitrogen fixing plants, and animal waste – including human animals.

Leafy greens need lots of nitrogen

Maybe people are unaware that urea, the common nitrogen fertilizer, is from mammalian urine. A synthetic kind is made industrially to sell to farmers. So, on the one hand we are using clean water to flush our own urine to expensive and often ineffective factories to be processed into less of an environmental hazard. Meanwhile, we are going through another expensive technological process to make synthetic urine and use further scarce resources to ship it around the world.

Tomatoes also need plenty of nitrogen

The easier, cheaper, safer way is simply to use our (and livestock) urine on our pastures and fields. This puts the power back in the hands of food growers and cuts out so many resource-intensive steps. The Rich Earth Institute in Vermont has done extensive research into the safety and efficacy of using urine. Their findings are very encouraging. They are working to educate and implement systems in this country. Other countries are ahead of us on this.

Maybe the biggest obstacle is the social taboo about even talking about human excreta. But I think we can overcome that. 

This is an opportunity to turn a problem into a solution and to create a more circular economy at home. Urine diversion has worked extremely well for us here over the past few years.  Let’s practice principle 6 – there’s no such thing as waste!

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Raised Beds for Vole Control (Principle 4 Revisited)

Last March I delved into Permaculture Principle 4: apply self-regulation and accept feedback. One of the topics discussed was vole control. One reader asked for more details about our techniques to deal with them, especially how we construct our raised beds. This post will delve further into how we have approached it, presented through the lens of accepting feedback to make positive changes.

Beets and Carrots, Saved from Voles

Our first few years at Living Land there weren’t that many voles. Our very first potato planting yielded about 15 pounds of potatoes for everyone one pound we planted! Carrots and beets were similarly successful. However, we had also set up something of a vole haven so it was only a matter of time. First of all, we were planting things they loved to eat, both the root crops and young fruit trees with delicious inner bark. I was also creating deep soil and covering it with mulch. Lastly, we have a lot of fencing set up to protect our garden from herbivores and our poultry from carnivores. So, the foxes and coyotes and bobcats can’t get in to help us keep the vole population in check. This resulted in a plummeting number of intact root vegetables at harvest time. Our last potatoes planted directly into the garden yielded 1/2 a pound for every pound we had planted. I’m willing to share, but this was ridiculous!

For a start, we do have two cats who we let out to patrol for rodents.  We do put bell collars on them which in our experience makes it nearly impossible for them to catch birds. It probably also makes it harder for them to catch rodents but we feel this is a reasonable compromise between competing ideals. One of our cats is a much better hunter than the other for some reason. Tabitha, now 18 years old, killed and delivered five voles to me this week alone. Still, that has not been enough to keep our veggies safe.

I tried moving the root vegetables to various parts of the gardens and orchards, but the voles always found them. This is when we decided to try to make special beds to protect our harvest from voles.

Standing Bed with Carrots

For Root Crops: Carrots and Beets

A friend gave us two standing beds made mostly for ergonomic reasons. These are high up off the ground, incredibly easy to work with, and definitely vole proof. However, we’ve also found them difficult to keep watered and in these times of drought that is a real issue. So, we have come up with a design of on-ground, vole-resistant raised beds.

We create them using as many found materials as possible. Steve brings home a lot of discarded pallets that we can use as an initial structure or take apart for the wood. We also had some small pieces of metal roofing that work great for sides.  On the very bottom we staple metal mesh / hardware cloth with a tight weave, usually ¼ inch.  (See below for photos of the process.)  It will eventually rust and rot, we know, but we hope it will take a while and give us maybe a decade of growing. The size of the bed is mostly dictated by the materials we have on hand the space we’re putting it into and we want it small enough that we can move it around to get it started. We put them straight on the ground and then sheet mulch into them, layering manures, seaweed, leaves, etc. The bigger ones we started with some big hunks of wood at the bottom like a hugelkultur bed.

We have been using these for a few years, making new ones each season. Early on a few were just about a foot tall and if grass grew up around them voles would access them from the top. We could tell because the bottom part of the beets and carrots that they usually decimate was fine but the shoulders were gnawed on. We extended the height and made sure to cut back the grass for these and now they are working.

Carrots from Protected Bed

For Potatoes

Plastic barrels have made their way to us over the years, mostly intended as rain barrels. Now that we have invested in much larger containers for rain catchment, we cut these in half, drilled some holes in the bottom and have been using them for potato growing. We are having mixed results. I think that keeping them watered is the biggest issue. Potatoes are very sensitive to getting enough water and it has not been easy to keep these moist. Last year before I planted the potatoes I put a wooden stake into the middle of the barrel. I left it there and would wiggle it around and water into that middle hole, throughout the season. This did seem to work better as less of the water simply ran off

Potato Barrels, Harvest on Top

around the edges. As a bonus, the barrels are somewhat easier to harvest. We can put down a tarp tip over the barrel and pull out the potatoes in the fall. We get nowhere near those original fabulous yields, but it actually felt worth doing this last time with about a 5 to 1 harvest.

 

We will continue to observe, interact, accept feedback and adjust but we are glad to have made some progress in learning to live with these furry, competitive neighbors of ours.

Bottom of be with stapled on wire mesh

Attaching supports to hold sides in place

With sides added

Wood added on top for further structure. Beds placed and planted, now growing well.

Four raised beds, plus a sheet mulched mound ready to plant.

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Capturing Energy in Many Forms (Principle 2)

It’s the time of year when Permaculture Principle 2, Catch and StoreEnergy, is front and center and sometimes entirely fills up my life! This principle is about managing the abundance and even excess while we have it in order to get us through leaner times. Observing various cycles going on around us helps us excel at this. Such as the yearly cycle of plant growth, the changing patterns of storms, and the daily changes of hot and cold driven by the sun.

Food

I have written extensively about the work I do to catch and keep the harvest when it is coming in. Food preservation is critical in temperate zones such as New Hampshire. We plan our garden for a year’s worth of food. Ideally, 2 years worth in case of failures in certain crops. Putting food up is how I’m spending a lot of time right now. We are having successes and failures, like every year, but enough food is ready to keep me busy. Such as…

Strawberries Ripening

We had an amazing strawberry crop. Actually, we often get a lot of strawberries, but usually the chipmunks and other creatures take them all. In fact, I have been treating the strawberries I planted in our orchards over the years as more of a ground cover and not expected much fruit. For some reason this year the chipmunks are not as abundant. Maybe it was the harsher winter. Whatever the reason, we picked close to 100 lbs! This mostly went into the freezer and I will can them this fall when it is colder and easier to deal with the heat and humidity that canning creates. If I have enough freezer space, I can even wait until the winter and do much of it on the wood stove.

Garlic Drying

Every year the garlic seems to be ready earlier. I worry that it won’t have enough time to grow good-sized, long-lasting bulbs, but so far that hasn’t been the case. I could have pulled it in early July but mostly got to it in the middle of the month. It is now laid out on racks in a drying area we created using scavenged materials, taking advantage of the sun and warmth this time of year.

Basil for Pesto

The basil crop is strong and I have made a few pints of concentrated pesto already this year. In order to take up less space in the freezer, I use minimal olive oil, skip the cheese, and instead add tons of basil. When I defrost it later I can add more oil and cheese if I want to at that time.

The collards are gorgeous and growing fast. I dehydrate those for soups and braised veg dishes. They can sit on the shelf for years with minimal degradation.

I am also investing in the future of my plants by saving seeds as they mature over the season: parsnips, lettuce, beans, herbs and flowers are a few easy ones.

Overwintered Parsnips Setting Seed

Beyond food, there are other energy flows we are involved in capturing.

Water

Rain Water Collection Tote

Now that droughts are becoming a regular problem, rain water collection is important. We used to expect a good rain at least once every week or two. With that schedule, our good soil, mulched gardens and abundant plant life means we almost never had to water. We had about 5 50 gallon rain barrels for a little extra resilience and for the animals, who tend to have better health drinking rain water. Now, we have invested in 4 275 gallon containers and added gutters on all our outbuildings to capture enough to last us 4-6 weeks in between rain storms.

Cool Air

We all know that every day the air around us heats up with the sun, and cools down during the dark hours. Since we don’t have air conditioning, we make a point this time of year of closing up the house on a hot day, then opening the windows to capture the coolness of the nighttime. I know it’s not as effective as AC, but it makes a difference without using a lot of energy.

Information

Another flow I work to capture in the summer is information. When I plant, what I harvest, what problems we experience… it seems like I’ll remember it all come winter, but I just don’t. All that data is pouring in when I don’t have much time to give to writing it down. Having notebooks and stations where we can keep simple records to go over later (like in my last post) has been really important to improving as a homesteader.

So, these are a few ways that I have integrated Principle 2, Catch and Store Energy, into my life. For another take on it, listen to Charlie Mgee’s song: Energy!  This one is also closely related to Permaculture Principle 5, Use and Value Renewable Resources and Services, which is next on my list to write about… when I can find enough of the most precious resource of all – time!

Collard Greens to Dry

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